Historically, North East India hasn’t been synonymous with coffee. For the uninitiated, the region is renowned more for its tea plantations and exquisite biodiversity. But, as with all tales of evolution, this region too is unfurling its aromatic story in the world of coffee. The commencement of coffee cultivation in the North-East region dates back to 1953 in the Cachar District of Assam. It wasn’t until the 1970s that commercial cultivation began in the Garo Hills of Meghalaya, aiming to replace the environmentally damaging Jhum Cultivation practices prevalent among the local communities. By the 1980s, states like Manipur and Nagaland were recognized for potential coffee cultivation.
A comprehensive survey by the Coffee Board in the 1970s earmarked over 40,000 Ha across 300 villages in 7 states of the NER for coffee cultivation. Efforts were made, with the financial aid of National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD), to plant coffee in various states (ref). However, the initial enthusiasm faced hurdles. A combination of lack of technical know-how, minimal support to the farmers, and logistical challenges saw many abandoning their plantations.
Yet, the coffee narrative in the North East didn’t end there. Today, the scenario is hearteningly different.
For one, there’s a palpable buzz about the ‘third-wave coffee experience.’ This is a movement appreciating the craft of coffee. From bean sourcing to brewing, it’s a nod to artisanal processes. The recent surge in café culture, spurred by the aesthetic portrayal of coffee on social media, has ignited curiosity among consumers, driving demand for specialty coffee.
And then, there’s the inherent advantage of the region. The North East, with its unique climate and fertile soil, is especially conducive to growing the Arabica variety of coffee. The wild growth, dense natural forests, and nutrient-rich soil ensure that the coffee is organic, free from chemicals, and packed with intense flavor. Add to that the bespoke roasting and processing methods, and the result is a cuppa with a distinct citrusy note that captures the essence of the region.
Emerging local brands like Été Coffee, Nagaland Coffee, Smoky Falls Tribe Coffee, and Altura from Darjeeling are leading this coffee renaissance. Their commitment is not just to deliver a cup of coffee but to tell a tale – the story of North East India’s coffee journey.
7000 Steps, a brand headquartered in Shillong, embodies this narrative. Named after an arduous trek, which had exactly 7000 steps leading to a remote village teeming with coffee treasures, the brand is steadfast in its commitment to freshness. By avoiding a distribution model, they ensure that every coffee enthusiast gets their beans as fresh as they were when roasted.
But the journey has not been without its challenges. On one side, there’s a history marred by a lack of technical knowledge, logistical challenges, and socio-economic factors leading to neglected holdings. On the other, there’s the potential of a region with the right climate, soil, and an eager market waiting to be served. The North East has embarked on this journey, though late, with a vigor that promises a future rich in flavor and tradition.
The ethos of the region reflects in their approach to coffee cultivation. The Coffee Board has been actively promoting coffee cultivation through its Special Area Program (SAP), with the vision to promote cultivation in tribal tracts, generate employment, aid afforestation, and more. These initiatives signal a shift in mindset, recognizing the potential of coffee not just as a beverage but as a tool for socio-economic development. Meanwhile, this region has also seen an unexpected trend: an emerging enthusiasm for specialty coffee. Behind this burgeoning coffee culture lie several global and socio-economic influences that have converged to make North East India a new hub for specialty coffee aficionados.
In the age of the internet, the rise of platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter has profoundly impacted trends worldwide. The visually driven nature of these platforms, especially Instagram, has showcased the aesthetic and experiential aspects of coffee. From beautifully crafted latte arts to serene café ambiences nestled amidst the North Eastern landscapes, social media has turned coffee drinking into an experience worth sharing, influencing many in the region to explore the world of specialty coffee.
Korean culture’s influence in North East India is undeniable. From K-Dramas to K-Pop, the region has embraced Korean cultural exports with open arms. Central to many K-Dramas are scenes set in cozy, aesthetically pleasing cafes, serving not just coffee but a lifestyle aspiration. The allure of Korean-style cafes and the unique coffee drinks often portrayed in media has further piqued interest and led to a fusion of North Eastern and Korean coffee cultures.
The rise of coffee culture in North East India is not just a trend but a testament to the region’s adaptability, innovation, and rich cultural heritage. It showcases the ability of the North East to integrate global influences while staying deeply rooted in its traditions. Whether you’re a coffee aficionado or someone looking for a genuine cultural experience, the North East beckons with the promise of aromatic brews, heartwarming stories, and a community eager to share its vibrant tapestry of life. The North East’s coffee moment is here, and it’s here to stay.